This tip has come in handy many a times.

Try it!

Happy Scrapping!

Cut 4 – 5×7 Mats out of 1 – 12×12 paper or cardstock and have a bonus journal square left over.

1. Using a cutter like Fiskar’s Personal Trimmer, open the swing arm and line up your 12×12 paper on the 7″ mark (fig. A).

2. Proceed to cut taking the blade down to the 7″ mark along the blade guide (fig. A).

3. Next turn the 12×12 paper 90º Clockwise, and repeat steps 1. and 2. (fig. B)

4. Turn the 12×12 paper another 90º Clockwise, and repeat steps 1. and 2. (fig. C)

5. Once again, turn the 12×12 paper 90º clockwise and repeat steps 1. and 2 (fig. D)

6. That’s it! You should have 4 perfect 5×7 mats and 1 journal square (fig. E)

Matting your 4×6 pictures couldn’t be any easier! Amazing!!

Aaaahhh!!!!! I sure am!

I finally found an adhesive that works practically on everything and now I have to start the search again!!!

How frustrating!

I know some of my scrapbooking pals are upset about the end of Kokuyo adhesives as well, so I thought I’d post about this dilemma and see what adhesives you are using.

For years I’ve used Hermafix, mainly the double-sided squares in the dispenser, and they work really well, except when it comes to using Bazzill cardstock and then that’s where Kokuyo came in and worked like a wonder!!! Sniff, sniff…

So, please comment. Let me know what’s your favorite adhesive(s). I’ll post a summary or a list from 1 to 10 and hopefully this will help us all to keep scrapbooking fun not frustrating.

Blackout SVG files!

What are they?

A blackout file is an SVG file which contains the outline of an assembled paper piecing pattern.

Genius!!!

This makes it extra easy to assemble the patterns! Plus, makes the whole thing much sturdier!

Here’s a sample of one my latest paper piecing buddies and its blackout file:

So,

Send the pieces including the blackout file to cut and assemble the pattern by laying each piece over the blackout using the outlines as a guide!

Genius!

Happy Scrapping!

If you’ve tried to keep the pattern scaled properly it’s a bit difficult because SCAL imports files in crazy sizes, not the size the file has been saved in.

To solve this problem just:
1. Import one SVG file
2. Scale it to the size you want
3. Send it to cut
4. Then before you delete it import the next SVG file of the pattern
5. Scale that file to the first one you imported
6. Delete the first file you already cut
7. Send the remaining file to cut
8. Repeat steps 4 thru 7 until you have the whole pattern cut.

Haven’t heard about SCAL, click here to learn more!

SCAL reads SVG files. For those familiar with PhotoShop and Illustrator it is very easy to save a file in SVG format. For those who don’t have access to these programs I’d like to offer my services!

First I’d like for you to know that all my paper piecing patterns are available in various formats including SVG. You can find patterns at The Shop.

Second, if you have patterns you’d like to use with your Cricut and don’t know how or don’t have time to make them into SVG files you can send them to me via email and I’ll convert them for you. Go to The Shop or click here on SVG FILE CONVERSION and check out the options available.

Please email me BEFORE choosing an option and include your patterns so I can better tell you what can be done.

Send your files to: orders@cocscrapbooking.com or cristy@cocscrapbooking.com

Up until YESTERDAY I liked my Craft Robo. Today, I love it!

See, I thought that by being a Mac user I was limited to a very narrow area of cutting because registration marks had to be printed on whatever I wanted to cut. Narrow, because the marks had to be about 2 inches in from the edges of the paper/cardstock so the digital eye of the cutter could recognize the marks. Then, I always have had to try positioning the paper/cardstock in slightly different ways until the cutter finally recognizes the marks. And then, if I used a dark colored paper/cardstock or one with a busy pattern, the cutter cannot see the marks at all. I did realize that by oulining the marks with my trusty white Galaxy Marker it helped the cutter see the marks…..but come on…… a bit frustrating to get something cut.

BUT……..the revelation!

I stumbled upon a Wishblade video and noticed that what was being cut didn’t require registration marks. I thought that would be nice if I could bypass the whole centering all the pieces close together of whatever I wanted to cut so that the registration marks are placed just right for the cutter. I thought I would just have to try it.

Well…….it’s wonderful!

I tried it out (yesterday) on my giraffe paper piecing pattern which I had tried before using the “registration marks” method and had gotten it to cut but after much frustration. But now, using any colored paper/cardstock with or without busy patterns, any size from like 2 inches to almost 8.5 x 11 inches, the Craft Robo cuts it like butt-ah!!! I was so excited, I started cutting all my paper piecing patterns just to make sure and yep, it’s great!!

So……what I learned.

The “registration marks” method although I have to fidget with it, is really great when I want to silhoutte a photo or when I design something with specific colors that I’ll print on white or light colored paper/cardstock first and then run it through my Craft Robo.

For everything else, just create and send to cut! Awesome!

1. Open a new file or a file you’re working on. FILE < NEW or FILE < OPEN…

2. Select the shape tool from the tool palette on the left. I’ll be using the square tool for this tutorial (Figure 1).

3. Drag the cursor to your desired size. If you hold the Shift key while dragging you’ll get a perfect square, otherwise you’ll end up with a rectangle. (Figure 2)

4. By default your square or rectangle is filled-in white and has a black stroke. You can keep these colors or alter them to match your layout or whatever you’re creating. Make sure you keep the square or rectangle selected.

5. Next go the Stroke palette located on the right side of your desktop. You’ll see an option for “Dashed Line”, click the box next to it (Figure 3).

6. By default, the first “dash” box is filled at 12pt, this gives a rather large dash or “stitch” (Figure 4) so to change that click the box and type in 6pt (Figure 5). To open or close the gap between the stitches, click the “gap” box and enter the value of your choice, I typed in 6pt, to keep an even ration between the stitches and gaps. You’ll also notice there are two more sets of dash and gap boxes. Those can be left empty or you can play around with the values there and see the different effects you can get.

7. That’s it! Easier than actually sewing, right? (Figure 6)

Note: Whatever setting you have in the strokes palette will be applied to any other shape you draw using the shapes tool until you change the settings or open a new file.

Happy Scrapping!

1. Open your layout or a new blank file, I’ll be using PhotoShop CS2.

2. Create a shape or place a shape if you’ve purchased or downloaded a digital embellishment.

I’ve drawn out this butterfly shape (figure 1) using the custom shapes tool. You can find lots of cool shapes there. I want to use this butterfly in a layout just as I would use chipboard or paper piecing in traditional scrapbooking.

3. Double click the layer of the shape in the Layer Palette (figure 2). This will open the Layer Style window (figure 3).

4. Click on INNER SHADOW (figure 4). Which will then open the options to create the inner shadow (the “chalking” effect in traditional terms). Focus on the options for DISTANCE, CHOKE and SIZE. Play around with those three until you get the effect you want. I usually set the DISTANCE to 0px and vary the amount of CHOKE and SIZE.

5. Click OK to commit your settings.

That’s it as far as “chalking” is concerned (figure 5). But if you want to take it a bit further, you can make the shape look more like real traditional paper piecing by applying a texture to it (see #6).

6. Use the TEXTURIZER filter (figure 6): FILTER < TEXTURE < TEXTURIZER.

7. Select CANVAS as the texture option and leave the default settings, they’re usually ok (figure 7). Then click OK to commit your settings.

8. And there you have it! Amazing! It looks just like real paper piecing! Cool! (figure

1. Get those photos out of the shoe boxes!

Come on! In the words of Nicey Nash, “Get rid of the foolishness!”. The more time passes, the more damage your photos are in danger of acquiring.

2. Get the photos out of the folder jungle in your computer!

Going digital has made things much easier, BUT, in the end, if you don’t get to printing your photos the computer is just a way more expensive shoe box.

3. Your photos are special, you took the pictures to look at them, get through #1 and #2 and showcase your photos with all those great paper kits and embellishments you’ve purchased and keep purchasing and don’t use (see #4). (Same goes for you digital scrapbookers!)

4. Scrapbooking kits, papers, embellishments and tools just get cuter and cuter. Isn’t it hard to “just look” when you’re in the scrapbooking store? I know you’ve got lots of stuff already. USE IT!!!!! That way you can make room for new stuff and minimize the clutter in your scrapbooking corner.

5. Scrapbooking is rewarding.

Once you’ve finished a page it’s just satisfying. You’ve saved your photo from damage. The moments you’ve captured have been beautified. The memories are there for all to see. Your album becomes an heirloom.

Of course there are many other reasons why you should scrapbook, but give these top 5 reasons a whirl and you could easily get to another of my favorite reasons to scrapbook….get your pages published!

Be inspired! Happy Scrapping!